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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.